It’s so hard to choose a favorite place from my travels—but if you asked me right now (and I’m pretending you did), I’d say French Polynesia. I don’t know if it’s the jaw-dropping beauty, the unbelievably warm hospitality, or the food that dreams are made of. Honestly, it’s probably all of the above... and then some. Whatever it is, I could go back again and again and never get tired of it.

Our last trip was our second time visiting French Polynesia. We hit a few new islands and revisited a couple of favorites. The hardest part of the whole experience? Choosing which islands to go to—not just based on what you want to see, but also on the logistics of how to get there. Island-hopping paradise takes a little planning.

So you want to go to Paradise?

You’re going to need to plan ahead—like, actually plan. First things first: when are you going?

Are you trying to save money? Avoid the rain? Escape during a school break or holiday? French Polynesia has two main seasons:

• Dry Season (May to October): Better weather, higher prices, more tourists.
• Wet Season (November to April): Fewer people, lower prices, but yes... more rain.

We visited in May 2022 (dry season) and again in mid-April 2024 (just barely wet season). Honestly? Both trips were expensive (French Polynesia doesn’t do “budget-friendly”), and we saw rain on each trip—though never enough to ruin anything. April felt hotter and way more humid than May, so if you’re someone who wilts in humidity like I do… consider this your friendly warning.

Getting There (and Getting to other islands)

French Polynesia is about an 8-hour flight from the West Coast of the U.S. We flew out of SFO both times.

• Trip #1: Red-eye with French Bee (budget French airline). Bonus: we got a mini day in San Francisco to eat lunch and relive our glory days before heading back to the airport.
• Trip #2: Flew United using points (bless).

Both trips landed us in Papeete, Tahiti, which is basically the cultural and travel hub for the entire region. I think there are direct flights from the U.S. to Bora Bora too, but they’re less frequent and more expensive.

Island Chains 101

French Polynesia is made up of five island groups:

• Society Islands: Home to the famous ones—Tahiti, Bora Bora, Moorea.
• Tuamotu Islands: Gorgeous atolls, coral gardens, and mind-blowing snorkeling/diving.
• Austral Islands: Less touristy, rich in local culture and crafts.
• Gambier Islands: High volcanic islands surrounded by lagoons.
• Marquesas Islands: High on my bucket list—remote, wild, and steeped in cultural history.

So Many Islands, So Few Direct Flights

Figuring out your island-hopping route is kind of like solving a really beautiful tropical puzzle. Inter-island travel is pricey and not always direct.

• Tahiti to Moorea? Easy. Take the ferry. It’s cheap, fast, and Moorea is actual magic (seriously, I’m obsessed).
• Tahiti to basically anywhere else? You’ll need to fly.

Only two airlines fly between islands: Air Tahiti and Air Moana. Most flights route through Tahiti—even if it’s out of the way. For example, if you want to fly from Bora Bora to Fakarava, you’ll probably go Bora Bora → Tahiti → Fakarava. Efficient? Not really. Charming and full of stories? Absolutely.

Also, not every island has daily flights. Some routes only fly, say, Thursdays. So you’ll want to plan your route before you start booking accommodations.

Finding a Place to Stay

Ah yes, those dreamy little huts over the water. Ideally, every island would have them, and ideally, they wouldn’t cost more than your car. If you can splurge—do it. Seriously. Everyone should stay in one of those at least once in their life. We didn't go on either of these trips (womp womp), but we did have that overwater bungalow magic years ago in the Maldives... but that’s a story for another time.

If you’ve got travel points, now’s the time to shine. We opened a Hilton Amex card specifically for Trip #2 and ended up getting four nights at the Hilton Tahiti completely on points. Score!

We also used Airbnb on both trips, which was great for mixing comfort with a bit of local flavor. And on Maupiti, we stayed at a local pension—basically a family-owned guesthouse or B&B. It was simple, homey, and probably the most authentic way to experience the island (plus, you get to eat real home-cooked meals, which is always a win).

Our Itineraries

May 2022 Trip

• Day 1: Land in Tahiti after red-eye flight. Sleep on airport benches like true travelers. Fly to Maupiti. Take a boat from the airstrip to a tiny motu (aka a speck of paradise).
• Days 2–4: Maupiti
• Day 5: Fly back to Tahiti
• Days 6–7: Tahiti
• Day 8: Ferry to Moorea
• Days 9–11: Moorea (a.k.a. Heaven)
• Day 12: Ferry back to Tahiti → Fly home

April 2024 Trip

• Day 1: Land in Tahiti
• Days 2–4: Fly to Bora Bora. Yes, it’s as gorgeous as the photos. Maybe more.
• Day 5: Island-hop marathon: Bora Bora → Tahiti → quick lunch → Rangiroa → Fakarava
• Days 6–8: Fakarava. (10/10 would go again!)
• Day 9: Fly to Tahiti
• Day 10: Tahiti
• Day 11: Ferry to Moorea
• Days 12–13: Moorea
• Day 14: Ferry back to Tahiti → Lounge by the pool → Red-eye flight home

I’ll be writing guides for each island soon—where to stay, what to eat, what to skip, and why Maupiti is my favorite... So far! Stay tuned!